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AA Gill, The Guardian
Monday, May 07, 2007
'My opinion is worth more than others': His splenetic sentences can put a restaurant on the road to ruin or dent a programme's ratings - and even Gordon Ramsay has had him ejected from the premises, but AA Gill doesn't lose any sleep, says James Silver

It is mid-afternoon in the Wolseley, the stylish Piccadilly restaurant frequented by Prada-clad ladies who lunch and the kind of tourists who do not bat an eyelid at forking out £29.50 for a T-bone steak in Béarnaise sauce. Although lunch-service is over, the place is still packed and conversation booms around the high ceilings. AA Gill, the Sunday Times' long-serving restaurant and television critic, who has asked me to meet him here as he was reviewing another restaurant nearby, strides towards the table, attracting a smattering of turned heads. The maître d' and doorman aside, I'm not sure many people recognise him. But he cuts the kind of C-list celebrity dash which makes people think they ought to know who he is.

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